It’s not as painful as you might think when it comes to rewiring your car. Manufacturers like Painless Performance Products out in Texas take all the frustration out of the rewiring job your car might need. Painless Performance Products has been around for almost 25 years and is one of the leading manufacturers of automotive electrical systems, fuel-injection management systems, electrical components, and diesel performance products that service the lowrider, classic car and truck, off-road, and racing markets. Painless wiring kits are simple to install because half of the job is already done for you. All that’s needed is for you to mount the box and route the labeled wires.
The Painless wiring kit comes complete with everything you need to wire up your own classic vehicle. We used a ’70 Caprice as an example to show you the process. The most important thing you need to know when ordering a kit is to decide what other extra accessories you might want added to you vehicle. This will help determine the right fuse box needed for your installation requirements.
This car originally came with power windows and had several other factory options, but that wasn’t enough for us as we decided to upgrade and fully equip our car with additional accessories that included Dakota Digital gauges, a power bench seat, electric moonroof, Vintage Air A/C unit, remote entry, electric fans, and an electronic fuel pump to keep the 58 psi required for the LS engine. So the right box that needed to be included with the kit was an 18 -circuit universal street harness with enough outlets for all of the features we wanted to add.
Now follow along as the pros at Ultimate Restoration of Norco, California, take on the wiring job on this classic.
1. The Painless wiring kit was ready for installation.
2. The job started with removing the old wiring that originally came with the car.
3. The 18-circuit harness was ready to be installed.
4. Randy started off by reading the printing on the wiring.
5. This wiring was long enough to reach the rear taillights and so it only needed to be routed.
6. Since everything is assembled into the fuse box, you need to remove it from the harness at the fuse box.
7. The light harness was taped up and routed to the headlights and engine compartment.
8. The detailed fuse box was mounted to the car, and as you can see, every major component has its own fuse. If there is to be any problem, troubleshooting will make it easier to work with.
9. Other advantages of this kit include the emergency flasher relay that’s incorporated into the harness.
10. The rear taillights and electric fuel pump wiring was routed through the factory harness protectors.
11. Randy connected the wiring on the chrome ididit tilt steering column.
12. We used a single wire to access the alternator to keep our Optima battery charged.
13. With all of the wiring that was routed to the rear of the car, the Aeromotive fuel pump was connected. This Universal EFI fuel pump was designed to keep your injection running without any starvation.
14. The rear taillight harness was connected where it ends at the factory plugs that route into the bumper.
15. We didn’t stop there either, as the taillights were also going to be upgraded.
16. The new Dakota LED taillights are easy to install too, and all you have to do is replace the bulb with this efficient LED panel.
17. These new LEDs are bright and modern looking as well as very visible when applying the brakes.
18. With the factory cluster out of the car it made it easy for the digital gauges to be added to the cluster.
19. After plugging the cluster into the Dakota digital brain, it was ready to read out all of the digital outputs.
Behind the Mask
The August tech tip of the month, brought to you by Axalta Coatings Systems, has a masking tape tip for you! This will help all of you painters who are in collision repair or into custom body and paint as well. We have all tried to block sand out the hard-edge lines left from mask taping the primer, base, or the final paintjob that’s left on the trunk jambs, hood jambs, and especially the doorjambs. That hard-lined edge left on the jambs, once the tape is removed, can almost make you repaint the jambs all over again.
Well there is a simple fix to this madness. The next time you start masking up an edge, take your roll of tape and roll the edge of the tape off of your pant leg to fold the tape in half, giving the tape a rolled-back soft edge that, once the tape is put on, will allow the paint to flow and spread a little past the line. This helps the paint to smooth itself out and not just stop on a hard line so that you don’t have to worry about paint buildup. Take a look at some of the images we have to show you, so that you have a better idea next time you mask off your jambs.
Thank you and happy masking! For more technical advice, please feel free to contact Product Specialist Steven Chaparro at firstname.lastname@example.org.