Shaved door handles can be a great addition to a car when it comes to looks, but in terms of function, they can be a nightmare. It is common for most enthusiasts to install a pop door kit for their car in the event of accessing the door, but that doesn’t always work properly. Certain types of door locks still won’t allow the doors to open, even using a pop kit. If you have ever owned a car with shaved handles, chances are that you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about.

In this issue, I will walk you through the solution I found for my own car which allows me to roll the windows down to be able to access the car. In the future, I will also be adding pop doors, and my new Dakota Digital control system is perfect for my needs.

The CMD-10K series remote controller offers 10-function operation. The set up controls the driver’s side and passenger’s side windows so that they may be able to be raised or lowered, and also remotely opens both doors. The CMD-10K also raises and lowers the trunk/rear hatch and it can even raise the auxiliary motor or release the auxiliary latch.

Take a look at the Dakota Digital website and you will see that they do more than supply digital gauges. Let us show you how Mario prepares us for our shaved door handles and Dakota kit on our project Caprice.

<strong>1</strong>. This Dakota Ten-Function Remote Entry System is going to give us what we want for our car.<strong>2</strong>. Since the power windows on the Caprice were high voltage, we needed to use 12-gauge wire.<strong>3</strong>. We started with the passenger side window.<strong>4</strong>. The input that leads to the window motors was tapped into and needed to be solder-welded.<strong>5</strong>. The same process will be done to each window.<strong>6</strong>. To make sure that the cables didn't look like <strong>7</strong>. With the other 3 windows wired, we went to the main control switch to wire up the driver door window.<strong>8</strong>. This wiring harness was tapped so the window motors can be controlled by the relays when we want them to open or close.<strong>9</strong>. The 12-gauge wire was securely wrapped so it could be solder-welded.<strong>10</strong>. If you have never seen a soldering torch, we snapped a picture of the one that we used.<strong>11</strong>. As you can see from the first solder-weld, the soldering needs to run through the cables.<strong>12</strong>. The new wires were protected as they were wrapped in electrical tape to prevent them from rubbing.<strong>13</strong>. The antenna for the controller was installed by the roof and will be concealed with the headliner once it is installed.<strong>14</strong>. When it comes time to wire the programmed control box, you can read the wiring diagram on the controller itself.<strong>15</strong>. The Main box was tucked away under the dash.<strong>16</strong>. With the wiring box tucked away, Mario referred to the installation guide to double check the simple but time consuming part of the tech.<strong>17</strong>. Using our Optima Battery, we checked the power in the system and made sure everything was working.<strong>18</strong>. Once we knew everything was working properly, Mario finished soldering the wires on the system.<strong>19</strong>. The power lead was wired and ready to plug into the fuse box.<strong>20</strong>. After it was all said and done, we tucked the wiring back under the dash.

21,22,23. With the push of a button, this power window rolls down.

24,25,26. Pushing the same button once the window is down will raise the glass. Remember that your electrical draw of your windows will determine how many windows can operate at one time. In our case it is one window at a time.