You always hear us talking about the stance of a car and why it is so important. In our world, lowering a vehicle properly will enhance the factory body lines. Adjusting our vehicle’s stance is usually the first item on our build agendas, as this can get you into the lowriding scene quickly without taking you to the cleaners. Since most of us are dealing with budgeting for our builds, we looked into a way you can look cool without going broke.

This month’s suspension tech allowed us to kill two birds with one stone as we lowered this classic while adding stopping power to the stock suspension. To make all of this happen, we called McGaughy’s, of Fresno, California, where Michelle guided us toward the right lowering kit for our classic car. We needed a kit that would work without adding hydraulics, and she pointed us in the right direction. Once our conversation was over, the results included 2-inch lowering spindles that were equipped with disc brakes. Now follow along, as the Maestro at House of Pain in Baldwin Park installed this suspension setup on our classic Impala.

1. This McGaughy’s setup was ready to install.

2. Using air tools, the front suspension came off quickly.

3. This spindle was painted in black.

4. The old stamped factory suspension was removed.

5. With all of the suspension removed we were ready to start installing.

6. You can see the look that you are going to be getting in this side-by-side comparison.

7. Overlapping the new arm over the stock one will help you identify that you are working on the right arm.

8. With these McGaughy’s tubular arms you will need to use the factory mounts from the stock A-frames.

9. Using an air hammer, we were able to pop off the stock bushings.

10. The new bushings were lubed to allow them to slide on when they where pressed on.

11. The two bushings were press-fitted on.

12. With all the bushings on the arm, the tubular arm was bolted onto the frame.

13. The lower arm was completely assembled as it received new bushings, and with the factory shafts attached, they were ready to be bolted on.

14. The tubular arm went on with ease, setting up the next step.

15. Since the car was going to receive lowering coils, they were slipped on and held in place by the McGaughy’s lowering spindle.

16. The tie rod arms that connect to the spindle were bolted on.

17. The bearings for the rotors were lubed before they where installed on the new rotors.

18. The rear bearing seal keeps dirt out of the bearing hub and was tapped in as it is held in place by pressure.

19. The rotor went onto the spindle and just needed to have the castle nut installed to hold the spindle in place.

20. The brake caliper went over the rotor.

21. The caliper was plumbed and ready to be bled of air.

22. The suspension work was all done and we were ready to work on the plumbing part of the tech.

23. Since we updated the braking system on this Impala, the master cylinder and booster also needed to be upgraded. This kit just bolted up to the firewall and was designed to clear the transmission linkages.

24. With the booster and master in place, the brakes were pumped, and the lines were ready to be bled.

25. To make sure brake fluid didn’t fly all over, we used a rag over the bleeder valve, which kept the brake fluid from spilling onto the nice paint.

26. The rear suspension also received a pair of lowering coils that lowered the rear 3 inches from stock.

27. Everything was checked, and all that was left to do was to put on our wheels and tires.

28. Here is our before shot.

29. We bolted up the Coker 5.20s and this ‘59 was ready to roll!

Selecting The Right Oil And Weight For Your Older Vehicle.

In this month’s Lowrider Garage “Tip of the month” series, we talk about picking the right Lucas Oil for your ride. This tip will depend on your vehicles mileage and year it was manufactured. Newer model cars need to follow their Owner’s manual.

How worn is your vehicle’s engine? If your vehicle has logged a great many miles over the past several years and has been running on 30- or 40-single-weight oil, multi-weight oil isn’t consistently thick enough to lubricate the worn engine parts that have become smaller from friction while wearing down, leaving wider spaces between them. To keep the oil thick enough to fill these gaps, switch to a heavier single-weight oil as your vehicle becomes older and starts to run a little rougher and or burns up oil more quickly. If you’ve been running on 30-weight oil, switch over to 40-weight at least during the summer months when oil tends to thin out because of the extra heat. So even the weather can be a factor when choosing the right oil and weight.

The benefits for using Lucas Oil include:

  • Lower oil temperatures for longer oil life and less metal fatigue.
  • High lubricity for faster acceleration and more rpm.
  • Protects against oil cavitation (foaming), a must for high revving engines.
  • Slows oil burning and raises oil pressure in worn engines.

1. Check your oil levels regularly to see if your vehicle is burning oil or if it needs to be topped off.

2. Never mix synthetic and conventional oil unless you are using a semi mix.

3. Do not use lighter weight oil as you can seriously damage your engine.

4. Change your oil regularly to manufacturers specifications.

5. Do not top off your oil and call it an oil change.

To learn more about Lucas Oil Products log onto